"Labor Leaders Unite to Address Exploitation in Pakistan’s Textile Sector" declaration of the workers gathering

 A gathering of labor representatives from the textile and garments sector was held at the central office of the National Trade Union Federation Pakistan (NTUF) to discuss the deteriorating conditions of workers and formulate a plan for their redressal.

 

The meeting addressed obstacles to unionization, the significance of international agreements, and the importance of adhering to Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) guidelines, global framework agreements, and due diligence requirements.

 

Comrade Zehra Khan, Co-Chairperson of IndustriALL Global Union Textile & Garments Sector, presided over the meeting. Joint Director of the Sindh Government’s Labor Department, District East, Mr. Athar Ali Shah, also attended and assured participants of the department’s support in the unionization process.

 

NTUF General Secretary Nasir Mansoor highlighted that the textile and garments sector is the backbone of the country’s economy, employing millions directly and indirectly. Despite being the highest foreign exchange-earning sector, workers face severe exploitation due to the dominance of local and international corporate groups over production processes.

 

He compared the sector’s importance to the economy with the lifeblood of the human body, stating that factories producing for local markets and international brands operate like labor camps. Violations related to wages, working hours, social security, unionization rights, gender justice, and workplace safety have reached alarming levels.

 

SITE Labor Forum (SLF) leader Riaz Abbasi pointed out that labor laws, international conventions, and agreements between workers and brands are blatantly ignored without accountability. He emphasized that the suppression of workers’ rights to organize and bargain collectively has further worsened the situation, with only a small fraction of private-sector workers receiving official employment contracts.

 

Workers participating in union activities are immediately dismissed to set an example, while factory managements create fake unions to obstruct the formation of independent and democratic labor organizations. State institutions often support these anti-worker tactics.

 

Zehra Khan, Co-Chair of IndustriALL-TGLS, stated that the distinction between the formal and informal sectors has vanished, with the textile and garments industry becoming entirely unregulated. Despite the increasing number of factories and the wealth generated by the labor of over 15 million workers, working conditions and wages continue to deteriorate, with over 90% of workers in the sector living below the poverty line.

 

She accused international brands and their local suppliers of deliberately ignoring their commitments and reinforcing the exploitative relationship between global and local capital. She stressed the urgent need for a concrete action plan to counter this alliance and ensure that workers, who contribute significantly to the textile supply chain, are recognized and afforded legal rights, access to minimum wages, and social security.

 

She informed the participants that the 2023 update to the OECD Guidelines for Multinational Enterprises emphasizes the obligation of companies to respect workers' rights to establish or join trade unions without interference. This includes avoiding actions that could influence workers' decisions regarding union formation, which is critical in ensuring a fair and equitable workplace.

 

More than 50 labor representatives from Karachi’s leading export-oriented textile and garment factories—many of which are part of global framework agreements like the Pakistan Accord—pledged to organize workers against oppressive working conditions. They resolved to dismantle employer-backed unions, expose anti-worker elements, counter conspiracies against independent labor organizations, and ensure compliance with international standards such as those outlined by OECD guidelines and due diligence.

 

It was also decided that a nationwide Textile & Garments Workers' Convention would be held in Karachi in mid-April.

 

Other speakers at the gathering included Rafiq Baloch, President of NTUF; Saira Bano, President of HBWWF; Aqib Hussain, Information Secretary of NTUF; and others.